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Got My First Octopus!!!

Refusing food is normal for a brooding octopus. Some will eat for all or part of the brooding where other will stop eating when the eggs are first laid (not species dependent). From only a very few observations, it appears that the ones that will take food live a couple of weeks beyond the hatching where the ones that refuse it from the beginning die within a day or two so it may be worth a continuing effort to offer small amounts of food.
 
Well, she has continued to refuse food so I don't try much anymore.....she pretty much stays in the PVC, I don't think she's even coming out at night but I'm not completely sure. There are approximately 15-20 eggs in the tube now, and you can see two little dots in the eggs.
 
I assume you know that the dots are the eyes and that this is the first sign we look for to determine if they are fertile. I posted a series of egg photos (O. briareus, not O. mercatoris) but you might look for other pictures of developing eggs as my angle on the eggs was not the best for capturing growth. I was delighted to get the photos though as the angle for my eyes was worse :biggrin2:. Clicking on the thumbnail once will enlarge the picture, clicking again will give full resolution.
 
Octopus continues to hide, I don't think she's ever came out of her PVC tube... checked in on the eggs today...there are around 20 of them, they are starting to move around in the egg.....I think they will hatch within the next 10 days.....what can I expect so far as survivability?
 
what can I expect so far as survivability

We have not had a lot of surviving hatchlings of any species (many are small egged species and that nut has not been cracked so survival has been 0 across the board). When we have had O.mercatoris hatchlings to survive 4-5 seems to be a magic guestimate, regardless of the number of hatched eggs. This is from a very small sampling size but as a hobbiest, I will throw out the numbers I remember without peer review :wink:

If you can find it, I highly recommend frozen Cyclop-eeze twice a day, preferably fed to a few grouped with shells in breeder nets. Hermits removed from their shells (tough to do and they are too large for the first few critical weeks), chopped up (smaller than mantle size) mysis or shore shrimp (table shrimp appears to be too tough until they are adults) and any kind of pods you can keep with them along with water flow (I think water flow is important but others think it is overrated). I turned off the power head while feeding but left it blowing through the nets the rest of the time.

They are a bit tricky to collect. A turkey baster works but getting the hang of sucking them off the wall (they will look like unfed white ticks) takes patience. Getting them OUT of the turkey baster can also be a challenge as they are born with functioning suckers. Try not to expose them to air in the collection process.

Very cool that you can see them moving, I have hatched out 3 broods now (2 mercs and 1 O.briearus) and never saw movement in the eggs (I never saw any of the merc eggs because the females used a barnacle shell to brood them and kept the entrance well covered). I did see chromatophore changes with the O.briareus.

You will definitely lose some of them and if you could collect them (often they will just disappear) and put them in alcohol and send me a couple, the timing is perfect for a photo project I am trying to set up comparing hatchlings from the species we normally see. I have O.briareus from my own brood, a pair of O. hummelincki from LMecher, Sarah has promised 3 bimacs she has collected and Thales is sending some O. vulgaris. I was lamenting not having access to O. mercatoris earlier in the evening. Please let me know if you would be willing to send them (again, I know you may not ever see the ones that die) and I will hold off a bit longer on attempting my photo comparison.
 
Should I make some sort of box with water flow right now and put her (in her PVC) in it? That way I can be more likely to find the babies when they hatch?
 
I would not touch anything BUT experience with hatchlings is limited with low success rates so there is no "right" way or best practice established. Roy has lab raised numerous species, numerous times and may have some alternative advice but with mine, I decided the female chose the best "spot" with the best water flow through instinct so I did not intervene. Catching the hatchlings is an interesting game (at least that is the mind set I used not to be frustrated or overly worried). One of mine refused to stay in a breeder net and I only caught him at 5 months old after I had decided he was dead and had stopped feeding the tank heavily. Wiley lived a full life so his roaming free time, appearance and acceptance to be caught (and I have to call it that as it was the first time he came to the front of the tank and just sat there while I scooped him out to put him in a smaller environment) did him no harm.
 
We are all newbie at this game ;>) but visually this question is probably best answered pictorially so Goggle breeder net to see what they look like. The use is to quarantine new hatch (of any kind of aquatic animal) in a small container placed in a larger environment to give the water and flow advantages of the larger aquarium but to keep them confined for target feeding and in many cases ( but not with octos), from being eaten by their parents or other creatures in the larger tank. Most clip on to the side of the tank but some use suction cups and some float.
 
Well, she ended up with about 10 babies....I had them in the breeders net but my urchin got on it and turned it upside down. I haven't seen the babies since. Today momma finally died.....RIP
 
Surviving over a month after egg hatching is unusual but the few we have seen do this have been O.mercatoris. Keep feeding the tank and watching for hatchlings, especially at night.
 

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