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Update on shy Occy


Pygmy Octopus
Sep 15, 2007
Well firstly I apologize for calling them tentacles not arms :smile: But I have to agree with you it is the 3rd "arm" on the right that is falling apart and now the one next to it is going the same way. He is attached to the front of the tank and has not gone into his den for days he is not eating even when offered, he kind of held onto the crayfish at the end of his arm for a few hours then simply let it go untouched he seems to move but he is not suctioned to the tank from behind like he used to while he was checking out the goings on of the tank, he is face first against the glass with his arms just sort of hanging there just stuck on at the tops. How long will this go on do you think? I thank you for your information I wish I had of found you when we first got him, I have learnt more from you lovely people in the last week than I have from anyone here in Australia, I even rang Seaworld and they couldn't tell me anything so thanks again


Staff member
Sep 4, 2006
I have kept one female pygmy through this period and observed the loss of grip and general weakening. She seemed to prefer "softer" things (the top of the pump, the acrylic or my hand) rather than walking on live rock or sand. If I put my hand under her she would crawl up on to it and sit until I gently placed her back on the tank wall. Fortunately, her skin never deteriorated but I don't know if this was because of an attempted preventative or just a natural occurance (I gut loaded her shrimp for a week or so with tetracycline after her babies were born). Trapper lived just over a week when she started her "final walk" (she was nocturnal and came out of her den permenantly both day and night, common for the end of a pygmy's life). It is too late now and you may not have wanted to extend his life if his skin is deteriorating but I discovered that the pygmy, at least, would filter feed long after she stopped taking other food. I kept the young in the same tank and would feed them Cyclop-eeze and notice that she was eating it as it floated around in the water column even though she would not eat anything else so I fed her directly with a pipette. Near the end she would come up the tank wall to eat and continued to feed this way until the end (possibly another reason her skin never "rotted"). She lived almost 12 weeks from the first hatching (thought to be a long time) but this is a one time trial. I will use the same procedure on her five surviving children (there were only 6 hatchlings) to further document the method.


Sepia elegans
Staff member
Feb 1, 2007
Time frames of senescence vary greatly from species to species and even within species. Many factors may contribute to early onset of senescence; other factors may also speed up the senescence state or slow it down. If water quailty conditions are ideal, senescence should progress slowly. Poor water quality conditions can only add further stress to the already compromised immune system which would, in turn, promote increased bacterial infections and a decreased ability of the specimen to fight against the infection.

Some GPOs may be in the senescent stage of their life for a year. Given that these observations are from captive animals, a year is about 33-50% of its life. It really depends. If it is eating well and the tank still is in good shape then I would give it about 60 d tops. That is just a guess though.

Glad this forum was helpful. That is why it is hear.

Greg :tomato:

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