• Welcome to TONMO, the premier cephalopod interest community, and birthplace of #WorldOctopusDay and #CephalopodAwarenessDays. Founded in 2000, we are a large community of experts, hobbyists and enthusiasts, some of whom come together when we host our biennial conference. To join in on the fun, sign up. You can also become a Supporter for just $50/year to remove all ads and enjoy other perks. Follow us on Twitter for more cephy goodness.

Yet another tank build (72 gallon bowfront)

TMoct

O. vulgaris
Registered
Joined
Feb 12, 2013
Messages
98
Here's the most direct comparison that I could make between the red and red+white illumination. The exposure and image-brightness are adjusted so that the woodgrain on the hood is at the same brightness level in both shots. White balance is the same in both shots.



 

Attachments

  • conv_300880.jpg
    conv_300880.jpg
    302.1 KB · Views: 532
  • conv_300881.jpg
    conv_300881.jpg
    396.1 KB · Views: 550

DWhatley

Kraken
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Sep 4, 2006
Messages
20,974
I'm impressed with the amount of white light. LED's keep getting better and less expensive and eventually, I hope to light all my tanks with them. To date, I only have one tank lit this way and that is because I won the table prize at the Orlando MACNA where where both Instant Ocean and Marineland did an amazing job for this day and time of supporting and contributing to the event with give aways for the participants. I looked into some of the aquarium red strips at that show and the price was still quite high. Do try to remember to post an update in a year or so (or sooner in the case of a "fail") on how well they do with the saltwater.

Feel free to include a link when you purchase something useful. Even an expired auction is useful for finding items of interest.
 

ScottM

Hatchling
Registered
Joined
Apr 7, 2013
Messages
2
Hello, to all. THis is my first post on these forums.

I have learned a fair amount so far while reading through many of the threads. Years ago, I think around "93 or '94, I had several salt and freshwater tanks. I kept an octopus for a few months, at which time it stopped eating, etc., while brooding. It only hung in there for another few weeks. It was really great, and seemed to enjoy cats through the glass....

Anyways, things have changed since then in the hobby, especially between filtration systems which are in vogue.

Regarding this thread, I have a few questions about the tank being used. Locally, there is a pretty good deal on an Aqueon reef ready 90 gallon. I am wondering if the openings for the overflow are too big and require mesh/. What is the best way to guard the top of the spillway? ALso, what is the maximum loading of rock in the pre-drilled tank, is there a weight or distribution restriction?

A concern that I have regarding the system described is the copper strip for the LED lighting. Will the copper poison the system if it begins to corrode?

Thanks in advance.
 

ScottM

Hatchling
Registered
Joined
Apr 7, 2013
Messages
2
Sorry for all of the typos in the above post. I was typing quickly, and badly need new glasses. I can't really type very well, either.
 

TMoct

O. vulgaris
Registered
Joined
Feb 12, 2013
Messages
98
Others have more experience than me, but I'll give my best attempt to answer:

Re: "octoproofing" the overflow Remember, the aquarium itself has a glass lid which is tight-fitting (and will be weighted down). I also have a lid that fits over the overflow itself. (I was all set to cut one out of plexiglass myself, but then found exactly what I wanted on ebay, so I took the lazy route and bought it.) It took a little "modification" with a dremel tool, but now fits nice and snug between the overflow top and the glass lid, and doesn't interfere with the plumbing inside the overflow.

Also, you can put in a material that is hard to grip with suckers but doesn't impede water flow, like this.

Re: live rock weight I've never heard of anyone worrying about the weight of live rock in a tank. The bottom panel of the aquarium will be made out of tempered glass, which is extremely strong. For comparison, local fish stores often have aquariums filled to the brim with live rock for sale.

Re: corroding copper polluting the tank Yes, I imagine that would be a problem if some copper flaked off and fell in the water. Again, there is a glass lid on the tank, and the copper in the LED strips, though it looks exposed, is actually covered with a clear plastic film. I'll have to see how it goes, though -- I may have to replace those strips with a more robustly waterproof kind eventually.
 

DWhatley

Kraken
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Sep 4, 2006
Messages
20,974
:welcome: Scott!

Even a tiny amount of copper can be a problem to inverts and octopuses are perhaps the most sensitive. The general consensus is to avoid even tanks that have been exposed to copper medications if they are sealed with silicone (copper retention in acrylic is uncertain).

Yes they can get through the weir (or as I call them castle turrets :roll:) You should to do something to inhibit access, particularly for small animals. Placing something inside the weir is one of the easiest solutions. You want something that feels rough and I have had very good success with very course sponge. I do suggest (and have had tank overflow before doing this) placing something around the bulkhead to ensure the sponge does not block water-flow as it collects debris and compresses. For my problem tank (bottom bulkhead, my others all have side exits and are less of a problem) I cut strips long ways along the sides of a plastic bottle (leaving the top and bottom of the bottle unmodified) to fit over the bulkhead and under the sponge to keep it from settling into the bulkhead opening. For side/back exits, there is a pre-made guard (both screw in and slip in depending upon the inside of your bulkhead, link for example, not a vendor recommendation but the pricing is about what I remember). I always have these fittings (before these were available I used a similarly shaped piece that you find at the end of a cascade filter) on my other bulkheads as they also prevent snails and hermits from entering the overflow lines. Except for small animals (very young or dwarfs), they have worked well by themselves (again, for side exit only and have had little ones get to the sump without a sponge). You can help dissuade curiosity by ensuring arms will meet a rough surface when they explore and by adding a light over the weir but it is hard to localize the light and anything rough will collect debris.
 

TMoct

O. vulgaris
Registered
Joined
Feb 12, 2013
Messages
98
A couple of minor updates on the tank.

I put in an MP40 to enhance the flow in the tank. It has a wide flow pattern and it can move a lot of water even at low speeds. Right now I'm running it on the second-to-lowest (constant) speed.

I also thought I'd post a photo of the skimmer in place (Reef Octopus POV DC-1). It is a great skimmer! You can also see a bunch of live rock and chaeto in the sump. The skimmer's pump controller is attached to the upper-right corner of the sump.



I took this photo yesterday while drip-acclimating the first 8-armed tenant! Journal on its way...
 

Attachments

  • conv_301034.jpg
    conv_301034.jpg
    302.3 KB · Views: 488

surfdva4life

Hatchling
Registered
Joined
Jan 11, 2018
Messages
3
I have an opening line in a presentation that reads "MTS is NOT fatal", followed by a picture of my breakfast room :biggrin2:.

Your references and a new member having difficulties has prompted me to try to collect links to good articles on cycling a tank. You will see the new sticky at the top of this forum and I have quoted the last part of your post as the first article entries :sagrin:

Nice setup! I too have learned to be fond of a no center post stand with double doors. Not only is it so very helpful for getting the sump into the cabinet but it makes maintenance a lot easier.

I would consider shielding the power strip as saltwater and electricity and not very friendly (more than one of us has started a fire with a power strip and a badly aimed splash, pure panic when you are holding the power strip when it happens :oops:). Not only is splashing going to happen but just the evaporation will rust your plug prongs. Please consider a ground fault connection with it being that close to the water. If you can't add on at the wall plug (there are plug-in models but they stick out a lot) seriously consider replacing the circuit breaker.

Hey,
I was wondering if there were other articles to read on tank maturing and how to get going because all the ones I've tried to access have been shut down? And I want to make sure I have a clear understanding of what I'm getting into before I dive in and involve a live animal.

Thank you:smile:
 

Latest Posts

Forum statistics

Threads
20,939
Messages
207,039
Members
8,498
Latest member
acorn kid

Monty Awards

TONMOCON IV (2011): Terri
TONMOCON V (2013): Jean
TONMOCON VI (2015): Taollan
TONMOCON VII (2018): ekocak


Top