pics of octo-proofed tanks?

Monty, I get the same message but I do see the picture (just can't right click and copy).

Sharkdude, if you decide on a hinged affair, be sure you do something like 1/3 2/3 or 1/4 3/4 NOT 1/2 1/2. Let the smaller part be the side you will leave down most of the time (in your case, the acrylic side). The smaller tank is hinged this way and all the cutouts at the back worked well with plenty of room to clean the tank in the forward 2/3. We have another tank that uses an acrylic piano hinge but these two are attached with a flat, no pin, hinge and I like these slightly better (the piano hinge may hold up better over time though). The latches on the sides are acrylic hasps from Tapp Plastics and are held on well with only automotive trim tape. If you are going to use this kind of hinged lock, be sure you set the supporting rim so that it is only the thickness of the top OR to the thickness of the top + the thickness of the hasp catch. In the larger tank, we added a rim attached to the tank TOP to support the flush acrylic cover (the same thing can be done with screening). You will need to lock the acrylic firmly on the left and right sides as the acrylic tends to try to bend upward (the thicker the better but it will still have this tendency) heat from the lighting will aggravate the tendency (especially since the water side is cooler). Keeping it latched flat will minimize the effect.
 
robind;127829 said:
Do you think the 'velcro zipper' will be strong enough?
Click to expand...

New lid, used rigid side of velcro on the lid, soft side on the tank rim. Yes, I do believe it will be strong enough. I might have to replace them occasionally if the moisture effects the adhesive.
 
okay, because I was thinking of doing something very similar. It's just I've read these articles that having a ceph is like having mike tyson's bicep in your tank. So I'm paranoid.
 
It depends a lot on the species and the octo. I tend to think Kalypso fits your imagination but the dwarfs don't need much more than a lowered water level and 2" rim. Part of the caution is that you don't always know what you are getting or how that individual octo will act. Most reported problems occur when the lid is left open (sometimes escapes occur when your back is turned during a tank cleaning - or, as once with Octane, while I was removing a stubborn spot of algae).
 
For a tank that size, you might want to consider placing supports about 1/3 in on each side. If you make two support bars together at the 1/3 spacing, you will have something like a hinge that will allow you to open either end without disturbing the rest.

I use "peg board" drilled acrylic for my tops. For the rectangular 35 gallon, I hinged it 1/3, 2/3 with the 2/3 side along the entire front (acrylic hinge from Tap Plastics - simple and inexpensive) and a support brace in the center front to back (part of the original acrylic tank design). We lined the tank with 1/2" acrylic (siliconed to the outer wall) so that the top had a support and was inset with no edges for "fingers" to explore. The acrylic lid looks nice, is a full weekend to construct and drill and does not allow for fan cooling on the main tank. Fortunately, the holes allow for heat escape and the sump fan (along with room temperature control) seems to work for us.
 
I live in Santa Cruz and the nearest walmart is a solid hour's drive. But if the 1" stuff'll work the 2" stuff should work twice as well!
 

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