- Joined
- Feb 18, 2005
- Messages
- 709
With the increase in popularity of Sepia Bandensis, I thought i would share some information that Ive aquired from my own experiences. This information is a little less available online, so I thought it may be helpful. Much of this was discovered the hard way. That is from losing a cuttle. Hopefully I can aid in preventing this frustration and heart ache with future Bandensis keepers.
-They can jump out of no-lipped/uncovered tanks and holding spaces. This happened to me once and may be a freak occurance.
-They are compatible and can live with other inhabitants. So far I have introduced a yellow tang and a seahorse. To be sure, I introduced these creatures in a clear breeder divider suspended in the tank and observed the cuttles for any signs of aggression. When none were seen I released them. They have lived without any problems with each other for 3 months now.
-With captive bred sepia bandensis, you can mix groups that have never had previous contact and are different ages. I introduced 3 four month year old juveniles to a tank of 4 eight month year old bandensis. Thats a size difference of 3/4 inch to 2 1.2 inches. There was no problems with this. Again, I used a clear breeder to introduce them. (Wild caught specimens may fight and kill each other)
-Powerheads and other sources of suction/water intake can harm or kill bandensis.Even with the suplied strainer shield, the suction can be too much. My experiences are with maxijet 1200s. I added a plastic strainer to cover the existing strainer and Ive had no problems since. (This might not have been the initial cause of the problem. The cuttles may have been weak from something else and then got stuck)
-Ive kept many kinds of coral species with bandensis including stinging aggressive lps like a hammer coral. The bandensis do not seemed bothered by them at all. But too many still may not be a good idea.
-Ive had 2 mysterious deaths on seperate occassions the day after feeding live guppies.
-Levels of canabolism differed drastically with new borns from different batches of eggs. One batch, canobolism was 0 while another batch showed extreme amounts where each baby needed to be seperated individually.
-The longest I was able to keep a Bandensis from an egg was 11 months. My first generation of cuttles started randomely dying at around 9+ months. Im still trying to determine the cause. I suspect local shore crabs or perhaps water temp. Signs of weakness and white coloring began the day before death.
-Any eggs Ive had so far have been infertile.
-Higher amounts of lighting seem to make them less active. I use a cycle with 96 watts of 50/50 powercompact is on 8 hours a day. A 175 watt mh 20k bulb goes on for 3 hours a day. If I turn on a 2nd 175 watt hallide, it seems it becomes too bright for them. This is over a 50 gallon display tank.
My tank and setup can be seen in the link in my sig, but to summarise, it is...
50 gallon display tank
20 gallon sump
~20 gallon for refugium and juvenile cuttle sections
Water parameters are all 0
Temp 74-76 in winter
76-80 in summer
Food - mostly shore caught crabs or pods for new borns
Feel free to add your own experiences so we can all learn from each other!
-They can jump out of no-lipped/uncovered tanks and holding spaces. This happened to me once and may be a freak occurance.
-They are compatible and can live with other inhabitants. So far I have introduced a yellow tang and a seahorse. To be sure, I introduced these creatures in a clear breeder divider suspended in the tank and observed the cuttles for any signs of aggression. When none were seen I released them. They have lived without any problems with each other for 3 months now.
-With captive bred sepia bandensis, you can mix groups that have never had previous contact and are different ages. I introduced 3 four month year old juveniles to a tank of 4 eight month year old bandensis. Thats a size difference of 3/4 inch to 2 1.2 inches. There was no problems with this. Again, I used a clear breeder to introduce them. (Wild caught specimens may fight and kill each other)
-Powerheads and other sources of suction/water intake can harm or kill bandensis.Even with the suplied strainer shield, the suction can be too much. My experiences are with maxijet 1200s. I added a plastic strainer to cover the existing strainer and Ive had no problems since. (This might not have been the initial cause of the problem. The cuttles may have been weak from something else and then got stuck)
-Ive kept many kinds of coral species with bandensis including stinging aggressive lps like a hammer coral. The bandensis do not seemed bothered by them at all. But too many still may not be a good idea.
-Ive had 2 mysterious deaths on seperate occassions the day after feeding live guppies.
-Levels of canabolism differed drastically with new borns from different batches of eggs. One batch, canobolism was 0 while another batch showed extreme amounts where each baby needed to be seperated individually.
-The longest I was able to keep a Bandensis from an egg was 11 months. My first generation of cuttles started randomely dying at around 9+ months. Im still trying to determine the cause. I suspect local shore crabs or perhaps water temp. Signs of weakness and white coloring began the day before death.
-Any eggs Ive had so far have been infertile.
-Higher amounts of lighting seem to make them less active. I use a cycle with 96 watts of 50/50 powercompact is on 8 hours a day. A 175 watt mh 20k bulb goes on for 3 hours a day. If I turn on a 2nd 175 watt hallide, it seems it becomes too bright for them. This is over a 50 gallon display tank.
My tank and setup can be seen in the link in my sig, but to summarise, it is...
50 gallon display tank
20 gallon sump
~20 gallon for refugium and juvenile cuttle sections
Water parameters are all 0
Temp 74-76 in winter
76-80 in summer
Food - mostly shore caught crabs or pods for new borns
Feel free to add your own experiences so we can all learn from each other!
