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What are you feeding your octopus?

It is good to have some variety and mine have refused to eat on occassion if they didn't get something different from time to time. Adding a half dozen (or more) shore shrimp to the tank will cause no harm (they will act as clean-up) and will provide an occassional chase and snack but should not be used live as the primary source of food.
 
I've been experimenting with different foods.

For the first month I kept my tank stocked with live shrimp and small tropical fish.

Then I started introducing frozen foods.

"Elly" seems to take Large Shrimp (like Shrimp cocktail size), Small frozen fish (not sure what type, but they were for human consumption, they look like mini sardines, gray and shiny looking). I gave her some fresh Salmon today and she LOVED it. She is not a fan of Krill at all. She seems to prefer fish over shrimp to eat.

I assume she is also hunting the shrimp in the tank.

Going to try shellfish and squid next.
 
Hi All,
I just wanted to post a quick note on what I have been feeding my baby bimacs. Initially they were only being fed live mysids (they started hunting within hours of hatching), but given the volume they were eating, and the expense and difficulty (at least in my hands) of keeping mysids alive, I looked for alternatives.

All the information I have come across re brine shrimp is derogatory (in the sense of their being poorly nutritional food for cephs - nothing personal!), but having read Hanley et al 1998 (Biol. Bull 195: 223-225 - stating that baby cuttles fed exclusively on enriched brine shrimp had a survival rate of 41%, as compared 91% with a mixture of enriched brine shrimp and mysids), and figuring that any calories are better than none, I gut-loaded live brine shrimp with Selcon and crushed Cyclop-Eeze, and half the babies got those when I didn't have enough mysids for everyone. I did not see any significant difference in survival rates in the two groups (NOT peer-reviewed ;o), and since many LFS seem to sell live brine shrimp, I thought I'd post this as an emergency measure for others to consider.
The babies were able to successfully hunt small (0.25 -0.5") ghost shrimp very quickly (at less than 10 days post-hatch). At that point the babies were still being housed in small groups, and it sometimes required a couple of siblings working together to bring the shrimp down, and then they'd tear it to pieces. I re-housed the babies individually at 2 weeks post-hatch (to prevent them tearing each other to pieces!), and currently (4 weeks) they are being fed a ghost every 2 or 3 days, depending on how much of the previous shrimp they finished. Some are also starting to take dead food as long as I wiggle it in front of them; small pieces of previously frozen raw squid seem to work okay, but they aren't really interested in pieces of previously frozen raw shrimp, and certainly not frozen mysids. The favourite among deceased foodstuff seems to be small pieces of raw scallop (but only from Whole Foods).
The adults take a mixture of raw shrimp and scallop, anchovy (bait-style, not in olive oil) and live Fiddler crabs. As an aside, one of my adults (age unknown) started to refuse dead food a couple of weeks ago. I would give her a raw shrimp and she would take it but just spit it out. I would then panic that this was the onset of senescence, and immediately give her a live crab to make sure she was still eating. Yes, she basically trained me to only provide her favourite food. Clever girl........
Cheers,
Lene.
PS Yes, I know I haven’t yet posted any information about, or photos of the latest batch of babies. I am rubbish. I am working on pulling the interesting and relevant bits from my lab book and posting a journal entry. Soon, I promise!
 
Thanks for posting about your progress. So far, so good!

Also enjoyed the story of how your octopus trained you to feed her live food! You're not the first to have this happen.

As for the scallops, Whole Foods claims not to use preservatives on its seafood, and I found out that many other seafood sellers do put preservatives on their seafood. This might be the difference.

Please keep us informed about your progress!

Nancy
 
Nancy;138412 said:
As for the scallops, Whole Foods claims not to use preservatives on its seafood, and I found out that many other seafood sellers do put preservatives on their seafood. This might be the difference.

Nancy

Tee hee! I was actually just being flippant about Whole Foods (it just seems appropriate, living in the Bay Area, that I would only buy my Octopus food from them). It is the closest place for me to get scallops, so I haven't actually tried scallops from anywhere else, but that in fact is REALLY useful information to know. It’s better to be lucky than smart, right (luckily for me)?
Thanks Nancy!
 
In my squirelly ignorance I've forgone "feeding" in favor of stocking the tank. Not sure it's the best way to go but I figure it allows for excersize and during the day while my pet's sleeping that nights meal can get a little cleaning done before a third or so are wiped out that evening. The problem I've noticed is that becuase she (for some reason I subconcously assume they're all female) doesnt associate me with food she has no reason to acknowledge my existence. The upside is I've never ever had a problem with an octopus not eating.....well...till they're nearing the end of course.

Kinda makes me wonder...is there another way to increase interactivity or responsivenes to me that doesnt involve food, or would I just be better of feeding by hand, possibly for reasons that havent even occured to me? :confused:
 
Interaction Methodology

Val,
Here are a couple of paragraphs I wrote for another member about my method of interacting. This has worked well for 2 hummelincki (Octane and OhToo) and one macropus (Beldar) but not with my current briareus (he does know the hand out of tank signal and his eye sight may be a major part of getting any further). I had limited success with one of my mercatoris but none with Serindipity (possible female hummelincki who brooded early). This method requires daily repetition and consistency but does not include food.

Since you mentioned my interaction experiements, here are a couple of suggestions to begin. When she starts staying out to observe you make petting motions on the glass (here again, regular, repetitive timing helps). Once she accepts the action without fleeing (and she may come to you), you can start working with her in the tank. Pick a "petting corner" and do not use any other place for the experiements and do not chase her in any way. Put your hand in the tank and slowly make the same gestures with your fingers. She should come to investigate and eventually (not long with hummelincki) touch. Allow her to touch but when she sucks down on your finger or hand and tries to pull, resist. If she does not free your hand (she likely will the first few times and may touch and run initially), lightly touch the back of her arm with a free finger or with your free hand. For whatever reason, touching the top of the arm should cause her to immediately release you (as she is learning, later she will allow even this kind of touch). Oddly enough, all my octos are less sensitive about a touch on the mantle than on the back of an arm.

As you start with your hand inside the tank, observe what she does when she runs away and come up with something more or less natural but distinct that can be a signal for hands-out-of tank. This is very important. The action needs to be distinct and you must me consistent. With Beldar, we use all arms off the glass. SueNami has to swim through the tube to the other side (SueNami understands hand out of tank but still does not allow petting). You will be amazed on how quickly they understand this and will test you over and over so close adherence is a must. They will also learn the play corner and the fun part starts when they test you. The day Beldar "got it" she played "make the lady sit" for two full hours and you could not help but feel she was having fun making me get up and down (I have to use a small ladder to put my hand in her tank). The link for Beldar provides a first hand description of that experience and a repetition of my method. Once Ziva does not grab and accepts touch, she MAY stop interacting this way for a week or so. Just keep offering by wiggling your fingers in the play corner and she will eventually come and then be consistent there after. My experience with this "forgetting" has been common with all that I have successfully trained and I think there is something a bit unusual about octo memory. When she resumes playing, you will not start over, she will fully remember the rules and likely play daily with an occassional day she will not want to play. Additionally, she should repond anytime she is out, not just at the routine time you use to initiate the interaction.
 
Tahks you're the best. My problem is that Bubbles (rip MJ) lives in a tall hexagonal tank on top of a 3 foot stand...I have to use step ladder just to open the lid. He does no swimming whatsoever and seems happy to skulk around the substrate and the live rock and goes no higher than a tentacle span from the bottom even when he is wall walking.
 
Bubbles' tank sounds a lot like Beldar's. I have tried to find an esthetic two step stool to keep in front of the tank (located in my living room) but have had an ugly but useful white stool sitting there for a couple of years. It is too much trouble to put it away every day so I just "don't notice it" until it absolutely has to have a bath.

Odd that Bubbles does not swim or climb higher. Even my mercs would climb the walls and dance at night (they were in a small hex and swam only on rare occassions).

My method requires the octopus to come to you but you may have to put your hand down to the halfway point to get proper attention :hmm:. I have some notes somewhere in my journals about leaving your hand in the tank until you think it will fall off and then leaving it in longer and I think I was talking about training Bel (sometimes I have to climb up on the couch arm or even the lip of the stand to get to something near the bottom or back).

It would be a good idea to start a journal on Bubbles rather than posting here. Others may have observed similar behavior and are more likely to see the posts on that forum.
 
After a short while they would die in a bucket of saltwater. They may require a brackish water and also they are semi terrestrial so they must have a place to climb out of the water. Otherwise:angel:
 
octopi88;140156 said:
Hi I was just wondering if I could just house my fiddeler crabs
in a 5 gallon bucket filled with salt water

You can still use your 5 gallon bucket. I have found they do best with about 1/4 inch of sand, rocks (mine are artificial and pieces of LR don't do as well as the artificial) to climb on and hide under and about an inch and a half of brackish water (half salt, half fresh). I rinse the sand and change the water weekly and place the food (about once a week) on the rock to keep the water cleaner. Be sure to top off the water (with fresh) so that they can be totally under water when climbing around in the sand.
 

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