pics of octo-proofed tanks?

Sharkdude

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I am considering getting a custom made aqaurium to house a dwarf tropical octo species and plumb it into my mature reef setup.

I am looking for pics of how you have made octo-proofed lids and filtration areas, etc

Thanks.

Chris
Garden Grove, CA
 
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I removed the velcro strip. On my next aquarium I will line the entire top with the velcro and attach the other side of the velcro to the screen so it will work kind of like a zipper, without having to use any of the duct tape.
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I kept the glass lids for the back half. Used styrofoam to fill the gaps, cut to fit around the HOB refugium in and out plumbing. Duct tape to seal it and hold it in place. Not real pretty but if I had a canopy you wouldn't see it.
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Chef Reef

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Heres mine. It is a zoo med screen lid that i cut some of the steel out of for the return and overflow. The light pretty much holds it down but i also have 4 clip locks that hold it down on each of the 4 cornors.
In the last picture you can see the locks for it.

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Keith

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definately a plus. the only thing im not clear on now is what kinda lights to get. i know they like red lights but do lunar lights work? what kinds?
 

DWhatley

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If heat won't be a problem, a rail of acrylic can be siliconed around the inside perimeter of the tank to support an acrylic top. We hinged ours but this may not make sense for a smaller tank. We also drilled holes like those in a pegboard to allow heat to escape. You can bend a piece of acrylic with a heat gun, use a plastic tie through a couple holes or add something cephy for a handle (necessary).
 

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Keith

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That seems like it'd look good, but the screen reptile top seems a little more functional. With the clips, I would never have to worry about an octo escaping, light gets in well, and heat wouldn't be a problem.
 

monty

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Keith;124731 said:
definately a plus. the only thing im not clear on now is what kinda lights to get. i know they like red lights but do lunar lights work? what kinds?

Red lights work because octos don't see red much, if at all. Lunar lights are white, so they have lots of wavelengths that octos can see. That doesn't mean the octo would object, but you wouldn't get the "humans can see, but octo thinks it's safely dark."
 

Sharkdude

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Thanks for the replies and pics.
definately gives me some ideas.

I'm leaning toward some type of hinged acrylic / clear screen hybrid.

There is some clear screening I have seen used on reef tanks to help with fish prone to jumping out.

This would help with light penetration as well as heat escpae while also keeping the octo contained and captive.

I have a good reference for custom acrylic work, so I could have him fashion a good lid for a side tank I have plumbed into the main system and easily convert it to hold an octo and stil have a reef enviro.


here's an old pic, but the tank setup is still the same.
The side tank on the right is what I'm thinking to modify with a custom acrylic/screen lid.

2758278770040076581BqKRti_th.jpg
 

monty

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I get "This image may only be saved by friends" from that link. Maybe because I use NoScript, but I tried to turn that off and it didn't help. It could be a linux/firefox/flash/amd64 stupidity, though, if it works for other people.
 

DWhatley

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Monty, I get the same message but I do see the picture (just can't right click and copy).

Sharkdude, if you decide on a hinged affair, be sure you do something like 1/3 2/3 or 1/4 3/4 NOT 1/2 1/2. Let the smaller part be the side you will leave down most of the time (in your case, the acrylic side). The smaller tank is hinged this way and all the cutouts at the back worked well with plenty of room to clean the tank in the forward 2/3. We have another tank that uses an acrylic piano hinge but these two are attached with a flat, no pin, hinge and I like these slightly better (the piano hinge may hold up better over time though). The latches on the sides are acrylic hasps from Tapp Plastics and are held on well with only automotive trim tape. If you are going to use this kind of hinged lock, be sure you set the supporting rim so that it is only the thickness of the top OR to the thickness of the top + the thickness of the hasp catch. In the larger tank, we added a rim attached to the tank TOP to support the flush acrylic cover (the same thing can be done with screening). You will need to lock the acrylic firmly on the left and right sides as the acrylic tends to try to bend upward (the thicker the better but it will still have this tendency) heat from the lighting will aggravate the tendency (especially since the water side is cooler). Keeping it latched flat will minimize the effect.
 
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