• Looking to buy a cephalopod? Check out Tomh's Cephs Forum, and this post in particular shares important info about our policies as it relates to responsible ceph-keeping.

pdf document and few questions.

Joined
Nov 5, 2007
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I'm trying to find as much as possible information of S. Bandensis... now i'm really starting understnding why is everyone saying there isn't much to tell..

well i founded document that could be useful to many if you haven't acquaintedit yet: ftp://ftp.fao.org/docrep/fao/009/a0150e/A0150e00.pdf

I found allready info about the water stats and something about the lights (fluerecense is enought, if i understood right). But you all seem to hid' pictures of your tanks. I'm curious about the setups. (what kind backwalls etc.) Have anyone made caves or acrylic labyrints (is those only those for octo)?
 
paleltuma;104602 said:
I'm trying to find as much as possible information of S. Bandensis... now i'm really starting understnding why is everyone saying there isn't much to tell..

well i founded document that could be useful to many if you haven't acquaintedit yet: ftp://ftp.fao.org/docrep/fao/009/a0150e/A0150e00.pdf

I found allready info about the water stats and something about the lights (fluerecense is enought, if i understood right). But you all seem to hid' pictures of your tanks. I'm curious about the setups. (what kind backwalls etc.) Have anyone made caves or acrylic labyrints (is those only those for octo)?

That's a great reference document (there are a first and second edition, and several volumes, I don't think the other volumes of the second edition are out, but you can find the ones that cover octos and squids in the first edition somewhere on the same web site.)

There are a lot of threads describing bandensis setups, but most of them haven't been updated recently... I think Cuttlegirl, Thales, Dwhatley, Paradox, and DHyslop have all described their cuttle setups (I can't remember if Paradox has had bandensis or just officinalis, though.)
 
Monty,
My baby cuttles did not survive so the reference might be a bad idea. I half wonder if my peppermint shrimp was the problem but that is only conjecture because I am at a loss as to what else it might have been. The shrimp was moved to a sump on an other tank and the same setup now successfully houses two of my Mercatoris octos.
 
paleltuma;105034 said:
this keeps buggin me... are we speaking ordinary fluerecense bulb or the ones that make uv light and is seen often in disco and stuff? What's it called? umm.. something like darklight?

Most of the time, people referring to fluorescent (or florescent) lighting are talking about the white-ish ones used for offices and such. The UV ones are sometimes called "black lights" but I haven't seen that too often in aquarium discussions. They don't seem to offer any real benefits as far as I know, certainly not for cephs; they seem to be popular for reef tanks with corals and other things that fluoresce under the UV light. I've been concerned for a while that AFAIK no one has studied how cephs deal with long-term exposure to high UV levels, but no one has reported any problems, and I've seen UV lighting in an octo tank in one public aquarium. I thought it looked bad, but it didn't seem to hurt the GPO.

It's worth noting that cephs can probably see a little into the UV, so even though this "black light" might look dark to humans, it might actually appear bright for an octo or cuttle, and make it want to hide. For extra confusion, there's some reef lighting brand that sells lights as "red UV" because it's a frequency that makes some corals or something glow red. This his fooled a few people looking for red lighting for nocturnal octos into thinking it's red, but as far as octos are concerned, it's on the wrong end of the spectrum.
 

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