newbie needing some help

Jlnune07

Cuttlefish
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Feb 27, 2008
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21
Hey all,

I would post in the "introduce myself" forum but I dind't wanna repeat myself.

So anyways my name is John and I've been keeping marine tanks for almost a year. Ive got a 24g AP and a 12g jbj. 24g has been a standard reef tank since day one and the jbj was my seahorse tank. Ive decided I want to switch it up a bit, broke both down, turned the 12 into my reef and want to get an octo for the 24. Been doing some research and talked to my local fish store guys and ive been re-directed here :smile:

So I guess its an open floor for any and all who would like to give me some startup advice. What are some good starter octos? live rock setup? sand bed? do i need that extra powerhead?

I've taken my 150w HQI's off and put the hood back on for safety reasons (which also meant removing my custom sump I was so proud of :cry: ) and I know I must secure it down as well as makeshift a way to block off entry to the overflow compartments in the back. Blue moonlights only? Ive also heard some ppl say adding red LCDs is works.

Thanks all. Hope to join the ranks soon...and sucessfully.
 

Octavarium

Wonderpus
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Feb 9, 2008
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My hummelincki (Carribean 2-spot) octopus is very happy in his 28 gallon nano cube. I have about 22 pounds of live rock and some corals near the top also, which he never bothers. He is always within sight and visible, eats very well, and is very active during the day...not to mention they dont grow large at all and require temp around 76 since they come from the Carribean. It is my first octo, and I think considering your tank size and it being your first octo...this would be an excellent choice if you can find one.
 

Jlnune07

Cuttlefish
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Feb 27, 2008
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ok so instead ill save some time and effort...i read a lot of the articles and answered some of my own questions. However there are still some to be asked.

Bimacs seem to be a good species to keep. My LFS sells "atlantic octos." They have given me no more info and I'm not sure if they can get others. With that said, any suggestions for a good online store? where have/do you all purchase yours if online?

All lighting comments have pushed me towards no light except LEDs but the articles say PCs and the actinics in the hoods are fine for a normal day cycle like any other reef tank. I'll go with the latter. But how about those LEDs for night time? white/blue/red?

Finally will my 24g nano be sufficient? A lot of ppl ive talked to and met have all kept theirs in nanos, and my LFS actually kept one of their "atlantics" in a 12g AP for about 6 months (i would come in a watch/feed it daily). The articles all call for 50g or bigger but actual observation tells me i'm O.K. with my 24 and religious water changes. ???
 

monty

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:welcome: to TONMO. The octos we recommend the most, bimacs and briareus, would be too large for your tank, but as Octavarium says, hummelincki has become popular recently, and the jury may be out on their requirements at full adult size. Other than that, though, you'd probably only be able to keep a dwarf species like mercatoris. The main issue with cephs is water quality, since they produce a huge amount of waste for their size, so adding more water volume via a sump and making sure you have a whole lot of filtration would be very helpful. The recommended tank size for bimacs and briareus is 55-75gal, since we see a lot more deaths from water going bad rapidly in smaller tanks.
 
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well for the night time lights use red because it makes a great viewing light and octopus can't see red. you can keep 1-2 mercatoris octos in your tank maybe 3 but they are nocturnal. i also have a hummelincki at the moment. i got mine from saltwaterfish.com but you can never be sure what kind of octo your getting. my lfs can get octos which are usually hummelincki and i can possibly ship one to you. not sure how much this would stress out the octo so i'm not sure.
 

Jlnune07

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Feb 27, 2008
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Monty- is the 55-75 minimum for spacial requirements or just for water volumepurposes? For some odd reason I thought it would be fun to set up a sump on my 24g so I did. I have a 12g "igloo" sump (yes as in igloo the cooler company :razz: ) that has worked perfectly since setup and theres always the possibility of going bigger.

But if not then I'll still keep the sump on if I end up getting a Hummelincki, Ive just been brainstorming on how to keep the back compartments open for the overflow tube and return nozzle, but close off the top of the tank. If i can cut them to exact size, what are thoughts on a plexiglass or chicken-wire type of covering that are secured down, and fit to block off octo-access to the overflow areas? Then I could just rest the hood and lights on top and presto! I don't think the actinics would get too hot for plexiglass.

Fishguy- If you don't mind me asking where in CT you live or the name of your lfs? I'm in NY near Danbury so that might be worth a drive if it will mean I get what I'm looking for.

Hummel sounds like the way to go for me. Anybody else with good sites to purchase from?

Thanks guys, for the info and the welcoming
 

monty

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Water quality is certainly the most important reason big tanks are recommended, but some octos seem to get overcrowded, too. Nancy has mentioned that part of the reason that the minimum recommended size for a bimac tank was that in 40 gallon tanks, there were some incidents of the octo bumping into walls a lot, or seeming to "pace anxiously" or similar. Like I said, though, hummelincki is a species that's really only been available in two batches, one very recently, and the previous one apparently with some sort of health problem (all the octos died within a month, many going blind) so we haven't seen how large they grow in captivity yet, really.

Nancy, Corw314, or Colin can probably give a lot more details, since they're the ceph care staff, and the decision to raise the recommendation to raise the recommended bimac tank size to 55gal was before I was around.
 

DWhatley

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We used plexiglass for our cover on Octane's 45 gallon. The 50/50 compacts are 18" away and still warp the plexiglass. There is no burning or obvious heat but the difference in air and water temp keep trying to give the tank wings. The cover is secured with clips but we will be adding extras because of the warping.
 

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