Building new tank

[Animal Mother]

Thought I'd start a log for my new build.

"Reef ready" 60-gallon cube.

Made an escape proof lid with a 23 1/8th by 23 1/8th inch piece of 1/4 inch thick acrylic. After pondering on how to seal it, I remembered I had the adhesive velcro.
Open...

Closed... seals VERY tight.

Octopus-proof standpipe. The internal overflow hasn't been installed yet (I'm waiting Marc... )

The workbench.

The base rock structure for the tank. Waiting on acrylic rods and then I'll get some "mighty putty" and bond them together in the tank, after I get my overflow installed. For now I busted up some clothes hangers to hold the pieces together in holes I drilled in the rock.

 

[DWhatley]

I hope the velcro stays stuck. I tried using it on the hot tub to secure a cover and the rough part attached nicely to the fiberglass and stays put (couldn't remove it if I wanted to) but the cover was exposed to evaporating water (and was flexible) and the velcro (heavy duty, industrial so the box reads) did not stay on a week. I also wonder if you will find it a real chore to remove the lid. You might think about cutting out a large section and securing a hinged top slightly larger than the hole if separating the velcro daily turns out to be problematic (of course then you still have to come up with a locking device). You might want to consider heat escape holes as well. We drilled them in the new tank lid and added them to Octane's tank (now OhToo's temporary residence) too. They won't let much air in but do allow the heat to escape. I think if you leave an undrilled lip and you will not have octo exploration issues (but I don't have Kalypso so my short armed guys may be a poor example).

 

[Animal Mother]

I do believe I will end up drilling holes in the top for ventilation. I don't think the on/off thing will be an issue. It's not difficult or pain staking, it's just on there REAL good. I pretty much have to pry it off with a flat head.

 

[DWhatley]

If you can come up with a piece of peg board, it is well spaced for neat holes. I think Neal used masking tape laid out in a grid and measured and marked with a ruler. I know he got bored drilling all the holes because he told me the number involved when he handed me the refinished product.

You may still want to put some kind of hasp or clamp on the four corners as the acrylic tends to bend, especially with the difference in the water temperature and the lighting above. It has been better to start with the latch than to wait until it warps as it won't unwarp (even applying a heat gun - this will let you straighten it but then it will go back to being warped as if it had a memory).

I have never tried drilling the LR and putting a rod through it. Does it require the use of glue? It seems the rods would hold it all together without the need to permenantly attach it.

 

[Animal Mother]

For the most part the rods will suffice. The branching pieces are set on the edges though and I can't drill them without busting them (they were one piece before I tried drilling the bottom). Plus I just want the backup in case there's some sort of shift for some reason, which I don't forsee, that's about 50lbs.

 

[DWhatley]

I have not tried "mighty putty". I hate the epoxy putty but keep it available. What I use when I can is Gorilla Glue. I wish I had tried it at the beginning of building my 4' live rock wall (egg crate backing) for the tall skinny tank. It has taken several years to begin to undo the damage (ie restart the live rock) because I had so much difficulty getting it to stay on the grid. I finally tried the Gorilla Glue and always keep it on hand now. It is not immediate set like the putties but really holds (it does expand a little so be aware of this if you try it). The LR is on a vertical wall in a 16 diameter tank (hex) and just does not come off where I used the glue.