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best bio media?

they dont train their people too much. aquatics actually gets the most training though. they do have some ok stuff, but they're definately lacking.
 
So I was reading up on maturing a tank, and I found a couple things that help establish the cycle. I already knew about live rock, but have any of you used these options?

1. "Seeding" your tank with gravel/sand from an already established system
2. Adding inexpensive hardy fish to excrete amonia to fuel the developing bacteria
3. Adding benificial algea

I'm not trying to rush maturing my tank, I just want to make sure that I get a strong cycle going. What do you guys think of these ways to help establish a tanks maturity?

-Keith
 
Keith;120813 said:
So I was reading up on maturing a tank, and I found a couple things that help establish the cycle. I already knew about live rock, but have any of you used these options?

1. "Seeding" your tank with gravel/sand from an already established system

This can help. At the same time if you have LR, your tank is already seeded.
2. Adding inexpensive hardy fish to excrete amonia to fuel the developing bacteria
There is no reason at all to add anything alive to cycle the tank. Its actually pretty cruel. You could add a dead shrimp from the grocery store and let it rot, but if you already have LR, you prolly already have decaying matter in the tank.
3. Adding benificial algea
Which algae? :biggrin2: I wouldn't bother, and actually think it would slow the cycle down by uptaking nutrients that are needed for different stages of the cycle.
 
There were a couple types of algea I heard can work out well. Green algea (Caulerpa spp, Halimeda spp, and Valonia), some red algeas, and some brown algeas. I've also read a little on Diatoms and Dinoflagellates, but I have no idea if they would be benifical or detrimental to the tank. The only algea that I know of that's bad for an aquarium is blue-green algea (Cyanobacteria). If I'm better off with just the live rock and maybe some sand from an established system, ill stick with that.

-Keith
 
so i had 2 questions, they arent about bio media, but everyone postin back on this thread has been really helpful so im gonna run with it. are refugiums hooked directly to the tank seperate from the sump or is it linked to one end of the sump? also, what kind of GPH rating should i look for in a powerhead? and should i get one or multiple?
 
Keith;121089 said:
are refugiums hooked directly to the tank seperate from the sump or is it linked to one end of the sump?

That's a personal decision. Some people like to have a refugium out where they can see it others want it tucked away with the sump. So it kinda depends on you and the space your working with. But the advantage of having it downstream of the sump is less detritus buildup in the fuge.
 
Keith;120818 said:
There were a couple types of algea I heard can work out well. Green algea (Caulerpa spp, Halimeda spp, and Valonia), some red algeas, and some brown algeas. I've also read a little on Diatoms and Dinoflagellates, but I have no idea if they would be benifical or detrimental to the tank.

The majority of aquarists consider all of those pest algae. Caluerpa can work well to uptake nutrients, but is quite invasive so most people will use cheato.

The only algea that I know of that's bad for an aquarium is blue-green algea (Cyanobacteria).

Its not bad, just most people don't like the look of it.

If I'm better off with just the live rock and maybe some sand from an established system, ill stick with that.

-Keith

In the main tank, yes.
 
i think i'm going to use my return line to push return water from behind the live rock. Then i'm going to have at least 2 korilia #2/#3. Still i don't think that it will be enough flow... so i'd say at least 4 power heads.
 
Just a reminder: if you use powerheads with octopuses, the intake and outlet need to be protected so the octopus doesn't stick its armtips in. We've even had very small octopuses killed by interaction with powerheads.

Nancy
 
absolutely. i'm looking into a nano tank for a pygmy also. do you think i should cover the overflow holes with window screen? octos can compress a lot, i know it wouldnt be a problem for a larger species, but i dont want a little guy to get sucked into the filter system.
 

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